THE SHOT Size:16 x 24 (14 x 22) Stripped down to its essence

Stripped down to its essence

and had a huge trunk that easily swallowed up to three 6' 8" Glenn Kennedy single-fins

Year: 1982

the weird hue of the western sky or mist-shrouded Anacapa Island in the background that gives this image its pre-historic feel

in the early days Tommy worked hard to “get the shot” as I did

THE SHOT Size:16 x 24 (14 x 22) Stripped down to its essenceSurfer: Tommy Curren Location: Santa Clara Rivermouth Year: 1982 Contrary to his reputation for deliberately eluding photographers, which developed later in his career, in the early days Tommy worked hard to get the shot as I did. Featured: Surfer magazines inaugural "Hot 100" article.